Experience Norway’s Never-Ending Koldtbord in the Trøndelag
Norway, set at the uppermost juncture of where Western Europe ends and the eastern portion of the continent begins, is renown for its fjords, white nights and infinite Nordic charm. In the nation’s center section is a region that is not quite as well-known, though it ought to be. It is called the Trøndelag. Broken into two counties, Nord-Trøndelag and Sør-Trøndelag, this stunning area, cut by ice and wind, is the quintessence of Scandinavian charm, hospitality, and beauty.
The geographic and economic epicenter of Trøndelag is the exquisite city of Trondheim. Until 1217 Trondheim was the capital of Norway. Today it is the third largest city in Norway and remains a populous center that plays the dual roles of being the ideal departure point for visitors headed to Trøndelag’s interior where reindeer graze on the local furze and sedge, or an ideal getaway for those in search of more urbane pursuits.
One of the best accommodations in Trondheim is the Scandic Bakklandet Hotel. Centrally located it is an ideal place to rest up before heading out to explore the food capitol of Trøndelag.
No visit to Trondheim would be complete without taking the City Walk organized by the Trøndelag Tourist Board. The path takes you over the Old City Bridge and past the magnificent Nidaros Cathedral, the burial site of St. Olaf the Viking King of Norway. Strolling the curved streets of Bakklandet with its picturesque, colorful piers jutting into the Nidelva river, there are numerous restaurants and cafes that specialize in traditional Norwegian cuisine. At the Baklandet Skydsstation Restaurant owner Gurli Riis Holmen serves her famous herring. Marinated for six months it is paired with aquavit. Also, don’t miss the seafood soup. If in season, the asparagus with quail eggs at Jossa Restaurant where the chef uses only local ingredients, is another must.
Going a little further afield you will need to take the Golden Road. This storied route runs along the edge of the third longest fjord in Norway, through Inderoy in Innherred. For the health conscious traveler a great place to grab healthy breakfast that features locally made sausages, cheeses, and fresh baked bread is at the Jægtvolden Fjord Hotel.
Also on the Golden Road is the Berg Farm in Kjerknesvågen, located in the municipality of Inderoy. A family owned and operated farm, it is one of the Golden Road’s most memorable destinations, from among many reasons, being an aquavit distillery.
Another sight in Inderoy deserving of your time is the Nils Aas Art Workshop. The Nils Aas galleries are home to some of Norway’s most significant sculptures. The Workshop was founded in cooperation with Nils Aas Nils Aas (1933 – 2004) who was born in the nearby town of Straumen in Inderøy. The artist was an intensely private person but through his art, he shared powerfully emotive experiences from his life.
Within Trøndelag visitors will find alternative methods of travel, like the world’s northernmost tram, the Gråkallbanen. At route’s end you’ll be in the town of Lian; home of Liantunet, a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving the tradition of using local food with the goals of putting, “Local food on everyman’s plate” and is committed to introducing and educating the younger generations to Norwegian cooking history.
A final stop that cannot be missed while in Trøndelag is Røros. It is a UNESCO World Heritage and the only Norwegian destination that has achieved the final of the three most prestigious sustainability awards in the world!
Besides being a UNESCO site, Røros is also a destination where chefs and food lovers can embark on a local “food safari.” One stop on the safari is at Skottgården, a working farm run by Jorid Skott Svendsen. Foodies are served a hearty lunch of beef stew with delicious just baked hearty bread was very enjoyable.
Another stop is the friendly old cafe Kaffestuggu nestled in the center of Røros where gourmands can try the wonderful beef tartar.
A surprising stop on the “safari” is to the bank vault in the basement of the very popular Vertshuset Restaurant Røros. The Vertshuset offers a progressive dinner that starts with a beer tasting paired with a tray of local cheeses and salami, followed by mackerel with cabbage and potato and veal from Røros with onions and spring vegetables.
The Trøndelag is an exciting place to visit, rich in history, teeming with delightful local handicrafts, incredible food, endless culture, and heartfelt hospitality of the region’s people; all powerfully intrinsic pulls that will ignite your passion to return soon.